Change or rekey · Oakville
Gate & Building Entry Locks
The driveway gate drags a groove into the gravel every time it swings, and the latch stopped catching weeks ago.
In plain words
A gate or door that will not latch is rarely just a lock problem; more often the hardware is being asked to catch a moving target. This visit reads the gate or door's actual swing, sag and alignment first, then brings the closer, hinges, strike and cylinder into agreement with each other rather than replacing parts one at a time. Once the physical fit is right, the same lock that seemed unreliable for months often turns out to have been sound all along.
How the visit goesBetween the front gate, the side gate and the one behind the shed, there are three different padlocks, three different keys, and a growing pile of duplicates in a kitchen drawer that nobody can match to the right lock anymore.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
How the visit goes
Looking for prior damage or an attempted entry
Before any work begins, the locksmith looks for signs that something has already been tried on the gate or door: pry marks near the strike, a scratched or spun cylinder, a bent hasp, or a padlock shackle that has been cut and replaced. Noting this clearly, before touching anything, means the property owner knows exactly what was there beforehand and what the visit actually changed. It also flags whether the surrounding frame or post absorbed damage that needs attention alongside the lock itself.
Resetting the strike and keeper
With the gate or door's adjusted position confirmed, the strike or keeper is repositioned, shimmed or deepened so the latch or bolt has a clean, full throw into it. On a wooden gate post this can mean moving the keeper's screws to fresh wood; on a metal frame it can mean elongating or relocating the mounting holes. The goal is a strike that lines up with the latch across the gate's whole range of motion, in damp weather and dry, rather than only on the one afternoon it happened to be tested.
Nothing left half-finished after a break-in attempt
Where the visit followed prying, cutting or an attempted entry, you leave with every damaged piece accounted for: what was replaced, what was straightened, and what was simply cleaned up and reused because it tested sound. The gate or door is shown closing, latching and locking normally, and any weak point the attempt revealed, such as an undersized hasp or a strike with too little bite, has been addressed rather than left as it was found.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
In the van
Cylinder decoder and pick set
Strike plates and keepers
Gate locks and latches
Key blanks and code cutter
Weather-rated cylinders
Gate & Building Entry Locks
What affects the quote
Condition of the closer, hinges and post
Simple adjustment of an existing closer is a smaller job than replacing a worn closer, correcting sagging hinges, or resetting a post that has shifted with the ground; the quote follows whichever combination the assessment finds.
Any damage from a prior forced entry
Where pry marks, a bent strike or a cut hasp are found, repairing or replacing that damaged hardware is additional to a routine lock adjustment, and the locksmith points out what was already there before quoting it.
Electronic components on the entry
A buzzer, keypad, electric strike or maglock adds its own diagnostic and testing time beyond the mechanical lock itself, and any electronic part that needs repair or replacement is priced as its own line.
What to have ready
- Is the lock dragging, slamming, stuck, or simply not latching?
- Has anyone moved out or left the building recently?
- Is the gate sagging, dragging, or hard to close by hand?
Gate & Building Entry Locks: questions
QuestionsHow do you decide whether to repair a gate lock or replace it?
The decision follows what the assessment actually finds rather than the age of the hardware alone. A cylinder that is only stiff or slightly worn is usually serviced and left in place, while one that is pitted, cracked or built to a grade unsuited to its exposure is replaced. The same logic applies to a closer or hinge: adjustment first, replacement only once the part itself has genuinely failed. You are told which category the hardware fell into and why before any work proceeds.
Someone tried to force our gate open. What happens now?
The locksmith first looks over the damage without disturbing it, noting pry marks, a bent strike or a cylinder that has been scored or spun, since that record is useful to have regardless of what else follows. Any hardware that was compromised is replaced rather than trusted, and a weak point the attempt exposed, such as an undersized hasp or a strike with too little bite, is addressed at the same time so the same approach would not work a second time.
Can a gate that slams shut be fixed without replacing the whole closer?
Often, yes. A closer that slams is frequently just out of adjustment rather than worn out, and bringing its closing speed and final latching action back into a sensible range solves the problem on its own. Replacement becomes the answer when the arm, seals or internal fluid have genuinely failed, which the locksmith checks for directly rather than assuming from the symptom alone. Either way, the gate is tested through several full cycles before the visit is called finished.
