Change or rekey · Oakville
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
The lever on the side door droops toward the floor and rattles in your hand.
In plain words
Sometimes the reason is simply that the hardware looks wrong or has weathered badly. Road salt, freeze-thaw and humid summers are hard on finishes, and a brass handleset can go blotchy while a lacquered knob peels. The locksmith helps you pick a finish that suits the exposure, whether matte black, satin nickel or a PVD brass that resists tarnish, and matches the deadbolt, handleset and interior levers so the entrance reads as one design. Function and grade are chosen alongside looks, so a door refreshed for appearance also comes out better protected.
How the visit goesThe keys the seller handed over came in a sandwich bag: six unlabelled copies for two locks of different makes from different decades. You have no idea how many more copies exist or who is holding them.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
Who is asking for the change
The first check is about the person, not the door. An owner can change any lock on their home. A tenant who wants new hardware on the unit door needs the landlord's agreement, and a landlord who changes a lock while a tenant lives there hands over new keys. The locksmith asks which situation applies and, where paperwork helps, looks at identification, a deed, a lease or a property-management note. It takes a minute and it means the new lock goes on with everyone who has a stake in the door knowing about it, which is exactly how a lock should start its working life.
Adapting older and unusual doors
Not every door is a standard modern slab. A century home with a mortise lock may keep its case and get a new cylinder and strike, or take a filler plate that lets a cylindrical deadbolt sit where the old case was, without hacking at the original stile. A door thicker than 45 millimetres gets extended spindles and screws. A sliding patio door gets a replacement mortise hook lock or a keyed surface bolt sized to the rail. Steel and fibreglass doors are drilled only with the right bits and a jig, and a new deadbolt above an existing knob is bored with a template so it sits square.
Every lock tried the way you will use it
Before the tools go back in the van, each lock is operated from both sides with the door open, then closed, then closed hard against the weatherstrip. The latch should catch on its own when the door swings shut, the deadbolt should throw to its stop with a fingertip on the thumb-turn and no shoulder on the door, and the key should turn without lifting or jiggling. You are invited to try each one yourself and to lock up behind the locksmith. Anything that felt marginal has been adjusted, so the door you close that night behaves the same as the one you tested.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Filler plates and thick-door extension kits
Chisels, mallet and hand screwdrivers
Key blanks and key cutter
75 millimetre strike and hinge screws
Handleset with matching deadbolt
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Changes to the door preparation
Adjusting a strike mortise is minor; boring a new hole for a deadbolt, fitting a filler plate over an old mortise pocket or adapting a thick door with extension kits is quoted as its own item.
Grade of hardware
A light Grade 3 knob set, a residential deadbolt with a strong label rating and a Grade 1 commercial-style deadbolt are different products at different levels, and the quote follows the grade you choose for each door.
Keying alike and rekeying
Pinning new cylinders to one key and repinning existing locks to match is work per cylinder, so a whole house on a single key is quoted by the number of locks joining it.
What to have ready
- Do you want every exterior door to open with one key?
- Are you interested in a keypad or smart lock on any door?
- Is the door wood, steel or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsCan I replace only the deadbolt and keep my existing knob?
Yes. The deadbolt and the knob or lever are separate locks in separate bores, so one can be replaced while the other stays. The new deadbolt can be pinned to work on the same key as the knob if the keyways are compatible, and its finish can be matched to the knob so the door looks intended. Replacing the deadbolt first is a sensible order, since it does most of the securing.
Can a lever replace a knob on the same door?
Yes, and it is a common change for anyone who finds a knob hard to grip. Levers use the same bore and backset as knobs, so the swap is usually a direct fit. Levers are handed, so the locksmith checks which way the door swings and chooses or adjusts the lever accordingly. A keyed entry lever pairs well with a deadbolt above it, and interior passage and privacy levers complete the set.
What information helps before the visit?
Photographs of each lock from outside and inside, plus one of the door edge showing the latch plate and one of the strike on the frame, tell the locksmith most of what they need. Add the door thickness if you can measure it, whether the door is wood, steel or fibreglass, the finish you want to match, how many doors are involved and whether you want them all on one key.
