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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Oakville
A silver-colored deadbolt set in clear packaging with two keys resting on the countertop in front. — Lock Rekeying, Oakville

Change or rekey · Oakville

Deadbolt Installation in Oakville

You moved in three weeks ago.

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In plain words

If your door already has a knob or lever bore and nothing above it, adding a deadbolt is a boring job in the literal sense. A jig clamps to the door at the right height, usually 140 to 150 mm above the knob centre, and guides a hole saw through the face and a smaller bit through the edge. The locksmith mortises the edge so the bolt faceplate sits flush, sets the bolt to the door's backset, then fits the cylinder outside and the thumb-turn inside. The frame is marked from the bolt itself, bored and chiselled for the strike, and the lock is tested open and closed.

Sound familiar?

You bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list. The door is now open and the box is on the counter.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap and glasses mounting a black keypad deadbolt on a dark front door, with a tool case below. — Oakville
Technician holding two key fobs at a bench with a tablet and three fobs on a gray cloth, an open SUV behind. — Oakville
  1. What the door is made of

    The first thing the locksmith reads is the door itself, because it decides how the holes get cut. A solid wood slab in a century home bores cleanly but can split at the edge if the mortise is rushed. A steel-clad insulated door has a thin metal skin over foam, sometimes with a wood block at lock height, and needs a metal-cutting hole saw run slowly. Fibreglass behaves like a hard plastic and chips if the bit grabs. Thickness matters too: most exterior doors are 44 mm, some older ones 35 mm, and the deadbolt's screws and collar have to suit that. Ten seconds with a tape and a knuckle on the face answer all of this.

  2. Marking and boring a fresh door

    With the height agreed, the paper template is folded over the door edge and the two centres are marked: the cross bore on the face and the edge bore on the stile. A boring jig clamps over the door so the hole saw cannot wander, and the cross bore is cut from both faces to leave clean veneer or skin on each side. The edge bore is drilled with a 25 mm bit through the stile until it meets the larger hole. The locksmith then traces the bolt faceplate on the edge and chisels a shallow mortise so the plate sits flush, keeping the cut inside the lines so the edge stays sound.

  3. A frame that now holds the bolt

    Behind the new strike plate is the part of the job you cannot see and will never need to think about. The pocket has been bored deep enough for the bolt to seat fully, the plate has been let into the jamb so it sits flush, and the long screws reach through the jamb into the framing behind it. On a door that had been forced or had stripped screw holes, a full-length reinforcer may sit under the strike. If you press the jamb with your palm now, it does not flex. That stiffness is what a bolt needs to do its work, and it is the reason the installation took as long on the frame as on the door.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Rekeying pins and key blanks

  • 75 mm (3 in) strike screws

  • Reinforced strike plate

  • Strike box

  • 25 mm auger bit

Technician in a cap using a yellow drill at the round bore of a dark door, with a black knob below it. — Oakville

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Keying alike or a fresh key

    Pinning the new cylinder to your existing key, or setting several doors to a new key, is bench work quoted per cylinder, plus the number of keys you ask to have cut.

  2. Mechanical, keypad or smart lock

    Electronic deadbolts carry a different hardware line and add setup time for codes, pairing to a phone and a walk-through, all of which appear as their own entries.

  3. Hardware supplied by you or by the locksmith

    If you have already bought the lock, the quote covers labour and any adaptation of the door to that kit. Hardware supplied from the van is listed separately with its grade and finish.

What to have ready

  • Does the door have to be pulled or lifted before it latches or locks at the moment?
  • Which doors do you want a deadbolt on, and does each one already have a bolt or only a knob?
  • Is the door between the garage and the house one of the doors you want bolted?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
I rent. Can I have a deadbolt installed on my unit door?

You can, with a conversation first. Tenancy rules in this province expect a tenant to have the landlord's consent before changing locks and expect the landlord to hold a key, so ask in writing and share the plan. Many landlords welcome a proper bolt. The locksmith can key the new cylinder to the building's existing key where the keyway allows, and leave a note of the model and keys cut for the building manager.

Can the new deadbolt use the same key as my other doors?

Usually, yes. If the new lock shares a keyway with your existing cylinders, the locksmith repins it on the bench so your current key operates it, and nothing changes on anyone's ring. If the keyways differ, the other doors can be brought onto the new key instead. Say which key you want to keep before the hardware is chosen, because keyway is part of picking the lock.

Does a deadbolt work with a storm door or screen door?

It does, with one check: the thumb-turn and the outside cylinder have to clear the storm door when it closes. Most storm doors leave enough depth, but a low-profile deadbolt trim is chosen where the gap is tight. The storm door's own latch is separate and does not replace a bolt on the main door, since a screen frame gives little resistance on its own.

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Deadbolt Installation near you

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